Shoe and method of making the same



J. A. KELLY SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Jan. 15, 1924- Filed May 27 1920 SI vwemtoz bination of a turn shoe and a stitch down Patented Jan. 15, 19 24.

UNITED'STATES 1,480,558 PATENT oFFicE.

JOHN A. KELLY, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed May 27, 1920. Serial No. 884,535.

7'0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JoHN A. KELLY, a citizen of the United States, residing at the city of New York, borough of Brooklyn, county of Kings, and State of New York, have invented a certain new and useful Shoe and Method of Making the Same, of which the following is a specification.

Thisinvention is a process of lasting shoes whereby economy of time, labor and material are attained and a superior article of footwear results from the procedure employed.

The invention pertains, more particularly, to the production of shoes intended to be Worn chiefly by women and children; the new article, in a certain sense, being a comshoe, and being characterized by the utilities common to both styles with none of the disadvantages inherent in either of the prior shoes.

In the present invention, I employ asole, the upper face of which is channeled or grooved to produce a lip and the lower face of which is slitted or channeled to produce a lip. The marginal or edge portion of the upper, with or without a lining, is lasted into the channel or groove provided in the upper face of the sole, and thereafter the upper and the sole are stitched in such a way that the seam extends through that part of the sole intermediate the channel in the under face and the channel or groove in the upper face, after which the sole is leveled for closing the lips upon the seam, the result of which is to encase the seam both interiorly and exteriorly of the shoe.

The shoe resulting from the procedure of this invention is similar in essential particulars tothat kind of shoe known in the trade as a turn shoe, but in my procedure it is not necessary to invert the upper or turn it inside out during the lasting and stitching operations, for the reason that the upper may be stitched to the sole without lasting the upper prior to'said stitching operation, or as an alternative method prior to stitching, the upper with or without a lining, may be cut to allow a margin of say one eighth of an inch larger than the shoe, after which the upper and sole are assembled, the excess marginal portion of the upper is drawn into the channel or groove provided in the upper face of the sole, and the sole and upper are stitched" as described. Thelast mentioned mode of amount of material which is ordinarily trimmed or cut away, and it is economical, also, because it saves the time and labor due to the lasting operation.

The shoe resulting as the product of my method possesses pronounced advantages over turn shoes of the prior art, among which advantages are (a) the seam does not protrude upwardly within the shoe so as to hurt the foot when the shoe is worn, and (b) the new shoe is more durable and wears longer for the reason that the seam is not exposed, it being apparent that the contact of the foot with the marginal portions of the sole and the upper has a tendency to press said marginal portions of the upper toward the margins of the sole and against the edge of the lip provided on the upper face of said sole, which lip takes up the pressure of the foot and thus relieves the seam from undue strain.

Other functions and advantages of the invention will appear from the following description taken in connection with the drawings, wherein Figure 1 is a cross section through a shoe produced by tion. v

Figure 2 is a plan view of the sole in an inverted position and with the lower lip in a turned up or lifted condition for a part of its length, said view showing by dotted lines the seamby which the upper is attached to the sole. 1

Figure 3' is a cross section through a part the sole, the lips on the respective faces of the sole being partially opened.

Figure 4 is a. cross section of a part of the sole and: a part of the upper, showing the condition .of the shoe following the operathins. of stitching the upper and leveling the so e. v

Figure 5 is a cross section on an enlarged scale showing a part of the upper and the sole during the stitching operation.

Figure 6 is a cross section through another form of the sole and the means for uniting the sole and upper, the parts beingshown in the condition they assume prior to a. (IOll'l the procedure of my inven I upper face and adjacent the margin so as to produce an inwardly extending channel portion from whence extends an outwardly extending channel portion as shown more particularly in Figure 3, which outwardly extending channel portion terminates an appropriate distance from the edge of the sole. Said two portions comprising the channel a result in a lip extending inwardly from the outer margin of the sole on the upper face thereof, said 11p presenting at its free edge a well defined shoulder.

On the under face, the sole is provided with a channel 5 extending inwardly from the edge, said channel I) terminating at or about the entrance point of channel a on the upper face of the sole, so that channels a, b, are or may be said to be in overlapping relation, more or less. The channel a may be said to extend in an opposite direction to the direction of channel I) relatively to the edge of the sole, and said channel 6 produces the j lip Z), the inner edge of which is integral with the sole whereas the other lip a is integral at its outer edge with said sole, whereby the two lips a b on the top and under faces respectively of the sole are adapted to be bent or deflected in opposite directions with respect to the sole during the stitching operation, as depicted in Figure 5. B is the upper the marginal portion 0 of which is drawn or lasted into the channel a provided in the upper face of the sole. The margin 0 of the upper is lasted to lie snugly within the channel and below the lip a, the edgeof which lip acts as a shoulder for contact with the upper, whereby the margin of said upper is encased within the channel a. e The upper and .the sole are united by any approved means, such as staples commonly employed on the stitch down shoe, but it is preferred. to stitch the upper. and the sole together, the resulting seam C passing through that part of the sole intermediate the channels-a, b, after which the sole is leveled in a well'known manner for closing the lips a b relatively to the seam C, see Figures 1 and 4, thef'r'esult of which is to encase the seam and toconceal said seam and the margin, 0, of the upper. The upper may be lasted in the ordinary manner, but according to one mode of procedure, the upper and the sole .are united without resorting to' the use of a last and Without turning the upper in the manner pfi'acticed during the production of a turn s cc.

lVhen lasting the upper, the procedure, is as follows: A sock lining is tacked to a last, after which the upper lining B is lasted and cemented or otherwise attached to the sock lining. The sole A, channeled as described, is then imposed on and tacked .to the last, and the upper is lasted so that the marginal portion 0 of the upper and the marginal portion of the upper lining B are lasted into the sole channel a and beneath the lip a of said sole. The next step in the procedure is to stitch the upper to the sole, the channel guides of the stitching machine opening the lips a b'for the passage of .the needle in making the stitches required to produce the seam C. After stitching, the sole is leveled in a well known manner, the effect of which is to close the lip a over the seam on the upper face of the sole and to close the lip 12 over the seam on the lower face of the sole. The seam is thus encased within the channeled sole, the result of which is that the top surface of the sole-within the shoe presents a smooth surface which does not hurt the foot when the shoe is worn, and, furthermore, the'outer surface of the sole is level and protects the seam from wear and to a certain extent from .the accession of moisture.

Anothermethod of uniting the upper and the sole is designed to dispense with the use of a last in the production of turn shoes. According to this procedure, the upper is out, with or without a lining, to allow a margin which is one eighth of an inch, more or less, larger than "the shoe. The upper with the increased margin is assembled with the sole, and the sole and upper are stitched, during which operation the one eighth inch margin of the upper is drawn into the channel or groove a; of the sole, the seam passing through that part of the sole intermediate the channels a b and the sole being subsequently leveled so as to close the lips a b relatively "to the sole and the seam for en'- casing the latter. This mode of procedure obviates the necessity for trimming the mar-- ginal part of the upper and this effects economy in the material required and saves the labor of lasting the upper, although after stitching the shoe should be fitted to a last until set.

Instead of usin and lip a as in may use a sole A suchas shown in Figure 6, saiil sole being provided with the channel 6 and lip b on the under surface as described, and provided also with a grooved in the upper face, said groove being in the same vertical plane as the channel'b. The upper B, with or without a lining, is lasted into the groove, the marginal portion of the upper being turned or folded as shown, and thestitches C passthrou'gh the upper and that part of the sole intermediate the chana sole with a channel a igures 2 to 5 inclusive, 1

. as described. I

Experience shows that an ordinary turn shoe when worn develops a certain irregularity on the upper face of the sole owing to the tendency of the marginal portion of the sole to become deflected upwardly on the top surface, and such protrusion of the sole has a tendency to hurt the foot, but in my new shoe the top surface of the sole within the upper is smooth so that the shoe can be worn with great comfort. The lip a being exteriorly of the upper, and said lip presenting a shoulder for contact with the upper, the pressure of the foot against the upper is taken up by the shoulder of the lip, and thus the seam is relieved to a material extent from undue strain, contributing to the durability and increased wearing quality of the shoe.

Having thus fully described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In the art of making single sole shoes, the process which consists in producing a sole with a channel extending transversely from the inner face for a definite distance toward the edge, leavingsaid edge unbroken on a line exteriorly to the upper, assembling an upper for the marginal portion thereof to be encased within the channel of said sole on a line interiorly of the unbroken edge of said'sole, attaching the interiorly positioned marginal part of the upper to the sole, and closing the channeled part of-said sole upon the infolded upper margin for the edge of said'channeled sole part to have contact with the upperexteriorly with respect to said upper.

2. In the art of making single soleshoes,

the process which consists in producing anoutsole with a channel extending transversely from the inner face to a definite line within the edge of said sole, leavin'g said'edge of the sole unbroken and forming a flap exteriorly to the upper, assemblingan upper for the margin thereof to lie within the sole channel, attaching the upper and the sole by fasteners which pass through the material of the sole on a line inside of the unbroken edge of said sole, and closing the flap against the infolded edge of the upper and with the inner edge of said flap in contact with the upper exteriorly thereof.

3. In the art of making single sole shoes, the process which consists in providing an outsole with a channel extending transversely from the inner face to a definite line within the edge of said sole, leaving said edge unbroken and forming a flap exteriorly to an upper, and in providing said sole with a second channel extending from the edge inwardly of the sole and substantially parallel to the under face thereof, assembling an upper for the margin thereof to lie. within the first named channel, attaching the sole and the upper by means extending substantially parallel to the edge and encased in that part of the sole intermediate the first and second channels, closing the lip of the first channel upon the infolded edge of the upper and forthe edge of said flap to contact with the upper exteriorly thereof, and closing the flap of the second channel upon the encased attaching means.

4. In the art of making single sole shoes, the process which consists in producing a sole with a channel and a lipon the top face and with a channel and a lip on the bottom face, said first channel extending from the top face to a definite line from the edge and producing a lip which extends from the edge inwardly of the sole on the upper face thereof, assembling an upper for the margin thereof to extend within the first channel, stitching the upper to the sole for the resulting seam'to pass through that part of'the sole intermediate the two said channels and for the seam to extend parallel to the edge of the sole, and applying pressure to the sole and closing the lips of the respective channels ,for the lip on the upper face of said sole to be pressed into contact with the upper exteriorly thereof. p

5. In the art of making single sole shoes, the process which consists in producing a sole with a channel extending from the top face to a definite line from the edge, resulting in a lip exteriorly of the upper, and in also providing said sole with a channel extending from the edge parallel to the under face and resulting in a lip, assembling an upper for the margin thereof to lie within the first channel, stitching the upper to the sole by a seam parallel to the edge of said sole and which seam is'encased within that part of the sole intermediate the two 'said channels, closing the lip' on the? upper face of .the sole for the inner edge of said lip to contact with the upper exteriorly. thereto, and closing the lip on the under face of the sole over the seam.

6. In the art of making single sole shoes, the process which consists in producing asole with a channel extending from the top face to a definite distance toward the outer edge and with a channel extending from the 1 edge parallel with the under face, said chantoward the sole edge and the other of which is opened by folding the same in a direction inwardly of the sole, assembhng an upper for the margin thereof to be encased within thefirst channel, stitching said upper to the sole by a 'seam parallel to the edge of the sole, closing the lip on the top face of the sole into contact with the upper ex- 5 teriorly thereof and closing the lip on the under face of the sole over the seam.

7. A single sole shoe embodying a sole provided in the top face with a channel extending from said face to a definite line h from the edge and with a second channel extending from the edge inwardly of the sole and parallel to the under face thereof, a lip on the upper face joined to the edge portion of the sole and having a free edge L3 in contact with an upper exteriorly thereof,

a second lip provided on the sole at the under face thereof by said second channel, an upper the margin of which is encased within the first channel, and fastening means 20 for attaching the upper and the sole said fastening means being intermediate the .chlannels and encased by the lips of the so e.

8. A single sole shoe embodying a sole provided in the top face with a channel extending from said face to a definite line from the edge and with a second channel extending from the edge inwardly of the sole and parallel to the under face thereof, a lip on the upper face joined to the edge portion of the sole and having a free edge in contact with an upper exteriorly thereof, a second lip provided on the sole at the under face thereof by said second channel an upper the margin of which is encased Within the first channel, and a seam passing.

through the upper and the sole in the material thereof intermediate said channels, said seam being parallel to the. edge of the sole and being encased by closing the lips of said sole, one of which is closed against the upper to produce a shoulder contacting with said upper exteriorly thereof.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name hereto this 20 day of May, 1920.

' JOHN A. KELLY. 

